Guaranda

From Banos we went to Guaranda, a small town a little more West from Riobamba. We arrived here on a Sunday. This was the worst thing we could have done. All over Ecuador most shops are closed on Sundays....in Guaranda EVERYTHING is closed on Sundays. Of course the hotels were open, but the restaurants of these hotels were closed. Just like all other restaurants. We needed money, but no bank was open of course and definitely no money machine. Help !!! Finally we did find a small restaurant where we could pay with travelers checks. We were not very hungry, but there was only one menu to order and we had to change the money by ordering food. A big plate with a complete chicken. This was only in the afternoon, at night this place was closed just like the others. We bought some bread and a bottle of beer which we had to eat on our hotelroom. There was a small cafe, we were the only visitors, but here we could sit and drink and even eat a small hamburger. The village itself was not worth a visit also. So skip it, would be my advice.

The only good thing was that we had a marvelous and great bus trip from Guaranda to Riobamba. Straight trough the Andes, no concrete roads, big holes, big precipices, big mountains and an old, rusted schoolbus. Enough ingredients for an exciting trip, full of scary moments. The locals did not seem to have any problems with the big, giant holes of a few hundred meters down only 2 meters from the road. The sights were unbelievable though and we were glad that the bus had a flat tire half way, so we could get out to enjoy the views (and to take a little pee). 

TIPS:


Riobamba

Riobamba is one of the biggest cities in Ecuador, but we did like it actually. There is a lot to do and see here. Of course not to stay for a week, but a few days is easy to spend here. There are a lot of colonial houses and from the Parque 21 de April we had a great view on the Chimborazo vulcano. For us it was also a good stay, because finally the sun shined more than one day. 
We also had a lot of friends here. Every day we saw the same shoeshine boys. Even though they have to work very hard, they are all funny and happy guys.  Deep down, maybe not. When we bought them some bread and cookies they were really happy. 
We also went for a walking trip around Laguna de Colta, a little South of Riobamba. From the books it sounded great, but the lake itself was not much. There was a small village next to the lake. We had a big friend here, but unfortunately we don't speak Spanish so this man talked and talked and smiled and we did not know where the hell he was talking about. But friendly he was, just like most Ecuadorians by the way. 

    The view from Parque 21 de April on the Chimborazo Volcano     

For food I can recommend Pizzeria San Valentin. Busy, but the pizza's are pretty tasty. El Delirio is also good, but pretty expensive. They did have a nice, warm fireplace. Since it was very cold when we were there, we really appreciated that.

We also went up the Chimborazo Volcano. We wanted to reach the 5 kilometer spot. It had been very warm for 3 days in a row now, so this could not go wrong. We got up at 6.30 a.m. and guess what ..... it rained big time. Our driver Luis (every man in Ecuador is called Luis!!!) picked us up at 7 o'clock at our hotel and all the way it rained and rained and rained and rained .... and so on. And of course, on the altitude of 4000 meters we could not move on because there was AGAIN snow preventing us to go any higher. This snow had fallen last night. A number of other people were stuck too, even the boss of the restaurant on the top. Damn. This is the second time that we could not go any further. 

Climbing the Chimborazo

 On the way down we first passed a great herd of lama's were running around. So far we had not seen them. A little more downhill we stopped in a very small village. Our driver knew some people here, so we could walk around a take a look in the small houses. Most of them build with mud and bamboo. In one house a woman was cooking on a fire of wood, without any waste pipe or anything like that. We had to run out after 30 seconds, because we could not breath anymore.  
 Unbelievable that people live in there. In this small village there was a small community house called 'El Condor'. It was build in the shape of, guess what,... a condor. Of course with a little fantasy. In here there was a school, a kitchen, a small hotel room (!) and a weaving-room. This visit had  great Santa Claus-effect, because the children waved at us and in the school they sang us a song. We brought some small animals dolls with us and made the two kids on the left very happy with them.

A visit to El Condor  

 

Our driver c.q. guide had a alternative plan, we went to the Guamote market. It was Thursday today and this market is only on Thursdays. It turned out to be a great and unspoiled market. A lot of men were dressed up in red poncho's and the women wandered around with chickens and pigs, their feet tight up. Luis brought us to a 'cafe' were we drank some tea. Not very tasty, but we needed some hot drinks. 
In Guamote the market is split in different parts: the fruit market, the pigs- goat- and chicken market, the horse market, the cow market and the what-ever-you-want-to-buy-else-market. Bring some good high shoes, because the mud and the shit lies 5 centimeter high, which results in smelly and dirty feet.
Whenever you feel hungry, you can always buy a pigs' head, which is a real treatment for the locals. It looks disgusting,  and we didn't try it ourselves. But feel free to ask for a bite !! 

TIPS:

The train

The next morning we went by the famous steam train from Riobamba to Azogues. This train is  only going for entertainment for the tourists. The fare is $15 each. The train goes 3 times a week at 7 am. When we were there the train went on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays but this changes every time. On the lonely planet internet site (even on the update page) other days were mentioned, but that was not correct. Just ask other travelers when the train is going. 
Friends of us did this trip a few months ago and they were sitting on top of the roof on a big steam train with about 4 wagons. Plenty of space. When we arrived at the train station, this train was already there, but we had to wait and after 15 minutes another 'train' came. It was a bus build on railway wheels !!! Indeed, a real Autoferro. Aiaiai, do we have to sit on that for 6 hours?? There were about 25 tourist and not all of them  fitted on the roof, it was too small. Sitting on the roof was not very relaxing too, because we were packed together, could not move, we were sitting on a wooded stick and our legs were under a small railing. 

The train is not going very fast and under way you feel like Santa Claus. A train full of white tourists goes trough the country site, through small villages and lots of people look at you and start waving. It must have been a very stupid sight !!
In the morning it was very cold, so bring along some warm clothes. The train stops in Guamote (after 2,5 hours or so), where you can get off and grab a bite. At some points steep cliffs are just a meter away from the train. The train is also shaking on his wheels, which is pretty scary some moments. If you are afraid of heights ... DON'T GO, you will wet your pants.
After about 4,5 hours you arrive in Azogues. Here you can choose: get off or go down to the devils' nose and back !! I would say, go on to the Devils' nose. This is good for some adrenaline shots. The train goes down in the valley along some terrifying cliffs. Down in the valley, the train turns around and goes back up. This takes another hour. The Devils' nose it not really worth the visit, you need a lot of imagination to picture a Nose in whatever shape you want.

This is 'The Train'. For 5,5 hours we sat on the roof. 

Back in Azogues you can take a bus to wherever you want. We saw buses to Riobamba, Cuenca, Guayaguill and some other ones. We took the bus to Cuenca, another drive of 5 hours. You can image that we were pretty exhausted at night when we arrived at our hotel.

 

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